Archive for April 16th, 2008

Salzburg really is a beautiful city. And, there is plenty to see.

But, it seems to have a “complex” of some kind in relationship to Vienna. Our tour guide on Tuesday morning, a lovely Viennese native who has lived in Salzburg for years, said:

Vienna styles itself as the center of Austria; after all, it is the national capital, and it has many inhabitants. But, the citizens of Salzburg secretly think that Vienna thinks too much of itself, and that in fact Salzburg is the better city.

Well, I’m not sure if they’re correct about that. The shops were certainly competing to see who could be the best vendor of “Mozart Balls,” the strange chocolates wrapped in likenesses of W. Amadeus himself. The funicular ride to the famous Festung Hohensalzburg (the town’s imposing fortress/castle) was clean and efficient and quick (although because it was efficient, it also took a while for it to start because they insisted on filling the car to its capacity of 40 riders before starting the one-minute journey!).

Still, there was something like a chip on Salzburg’s shoulder. I don’t quite know what it was, but there is an edge to the city, like it wants to be Vienna, perhaps, and knows it never can.

No matter: the food was good, the cathedral (with its five organs!) breathtakingly beautiful, and the company of choristers and friends has been delightful!

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A very short post (because our bus awaits) to let you know we all arrived safely in Prague. We had no internet access in Salzburg, but many stories queued up and waiting to share with you.

Thanks for your encouraging comments!

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